Wagyu Atlas

Layer 3 · kakuzuke, grade

Reading "A5"

A Japanese carcass grade is two marks, not one. The letter describes how much usable meat the carcass gives. The number describes quality, and it is set by the weakest of four checks.

Decoder

Yield
Quality

How the system works

Graders from the Japan Meat Grading Association assess carcasses at processing plants under the association's carcass trading standard. [Handbook 2021]

On those terms, the handbook calls A5 the top grade and C1 the lowest. [Handbook 2021]

Why A5 is not automatically "best tasting"

The A in A5 is about yield, meaning a high share of usable meat. It describes the carcass, not how the meat eats. Kobe, for example, accepts yield grade B. [Handbook 2021]

The colour checks partly reflect appearance. A meat inspector told Schatzker that white fat is preferred because it looks better against red meat, not because it tastes better. [Schatzker]

Taste is personal. Schatzker writes that most of the Japanese beef lovers he talked to preferred A3, and only two said they liked A5. That is one traveller's conversations, not a survey. [Schatzker]

Use matters too. Yamamoto notes that dry-agers tend to choose Japanese Black around A4, and that the traditional Japanese hanging method usually uses top-grade Japanese Black. [Yamamoto 2017]

Reading a menu

A grade on a menu answers two questions, yield and quality. It does not tell you the breed, the brand, the age of the animal or how the meat was aged. For those, look for the brand name and ask the restaurant.

Portions can be small. Schatzker describes A5 at a Tokyo yakiniku restaurant cut to about 3 mm thick and the size of a business card, grilled at the table. He adds that in Japan rich fat is an occasional treat. He doubted any Japanese person would eat A3–A5 beef twice in one day, as he had. [Schatzker]

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